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  • 5 Reasons to Go to Santa Cruz

    Friendly and progressive Santa Cruz County ranks among the most enchanting and LGBTQ-inclusive coastal destinations in California. Just 75 miles south of one of the world’s gay and lesbian meccas, San Francisco, this picturesque string of communities with a backdrop of lush and hilly forests is anchored by a vibrant and diverse university town and famous for its laid-back surfing and beach culture, sustainability-focused ethos, and creative spirit.

    Here are just a few of the many reasons this sunny stretch of coast overlooking Monterey Bay is such an idyllic LGBTQ getaway.

    YOU CAN BE YOURSELF, AND CELEBRATE YOUR PRIDE

    One big reason both local and visiting LGBTQ folks appreciate Santa Cruz is that it’s so easy to feel welcome, safe, and included here. Begun in 1975, Santa Cruz Pride is one of the oldest such events on the West Coast. Thousands of queer folks and allies turn out for this spirited event held the first weekend each June in downtown Santa Cruz and featuring a Pride March, a festival, a Dyke Trans March, and post-festival parties and concerts at a few different venues. Note that although Santa Cruz doesn’t have any specific gay bars, the city’s nightspots are consistently LGBTQ-welcoming, and some—such as the Catalyst live music club, Motiv, and the Blue Lounge—occasionally host community nights and Pride events.

    Santa Cruz County is served by a fantastic Diversity Center that sponsors all kinds of community events throughout the year and also provides myriad resources and services, including the region’s most comprehensive online directory of LGBTQ-supportive businesses and organizations. And in the hills on the west side of the city, UC Santa Cruz has a highly visible queer community and either hosts or sponsors a variety of events—some open to the public—through its Lionel Cantú Queer Center.

    Situated in one of the first states in the country to legalize same-sex marriage, Santa Cruz also a fantastic place to plan a destination wedding—anything from a small elopement on the beach (you just need to obtain a permit from the appropriate city, county, or state agency) to a lavish fete at a grand resort. Given the region’s inclusive mindset, you can count on finding local vendors—photographers, bakers, musicians, officiants, venues—who are thrilled to work with LGBTQ couples.

    STAY IN A HIP, DISTINCTIVE HOTEL

    Offering everything from inexpensive mom-and-pop motels to one-of-a-kind vacation rentals and B&Bs to smartly designed resorts and boutique hotels, Santa Cruz County has plenty of cool lodging options. A regular sponsor of Santa Cruz Pride, the sleek and chic Hotel Paradox—a member of Marriott’s distinctive Autograph Collection—offers 170 urbanely designed rooms with reclaimed-wood accents and river-rock shower floors, plus a scene-y pool with cabanas and a fabulous restaurant and bar. Set high on a wooded bluff in the Santa Cruz Mountains, the historic, 200-acre Chaminade Resort and Spa is the ultimate destination for a relaxing, romantic getaway. Dine on creative California cuisine in the View restaurant with its sweeping ocean panorama, enjoy a Simply Zen massage in the elegant spa, hike the property’s 3 miles of verdant trails.

    Other great options in Santa Cruz include the beachfront Dream Inn, with its fun mid-century vibe and dreamy setting at the foot of Santa Cruz Wharf, and the nearby Beach Street Inn and Suites, a colorful and reasonably priced renovated 1940s property near the water and with a year-round heated pool.

    Elsewhere around the county, the brightly painted, Mediterranean Revival-style Capitola Venetian Hotel was built in the 1920s and offers spacious rooms—many with fully equipped kitchens—overlooking Soquel Creek or Monterey Bay. The romantic Inn at Depot Hill occupies an 1870s former rail depot in Capitola and features a dozen lavishly appointed accommodations with plush bedding, fireplaces, and in some cases outdoor jetted tubs. And set on 10 peaceful garden acres in the Aptos wine country, Sand Rock Farm offers five gorgeously appointed, light-filled contemporary suites with Jacuzzis and access to an inviting common deck with a fire pit.

    YOU’RE NEVER FAR FROM THE OCEAN

    In a county that’s rife with opportunities for outdoor recreation and contains nearly 30 miles of spectacular beaches, there’s no shortage of opportunities for strolling, biking, surfing, boating, whale-watching, and even dining on or overlooking the water. You’ll even find some patches of sand with notable followings among LGBTQ beach goers, many of them just up the coast along scenic Highway 1, such as clothing-optional Laguna Creek Beach and Bonny Doon Beach. Many of the county’s 14 state parks are along the ocean. And even when you’re exploring the inland parks, such as Henry Cowell Redwoods and the Forest of Nisene Marks, you can still detect the whiff of fresh, salt air.

    With its historic Boardwalk amusements and the longest timber-pile wharf in the United States, Santa Cruz boasts a colorful waterfront that’s equal parts retro nostalgia and natural beauty. You can admire sea lions and dolphins in the ocean or watch some of the world’s most skilled surfers tackle the crashing waves of Steamer Lane, just off Lighthouse Point, where you’ll also find the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum. A couple of miles west, you’ll find Natural Bridges State Beach, one of the best points along the coast to watch the sunset. It’s famous for its Instagrammable sandstone arch and a preserve inhabited by some 150,000 monarch butterflies from late fall through early winter.

    East of town along Monterey Bay, Pleasure Point in Capitola is another great place to watch some of the county’s top surfers show their moves—surfing legend and wetsuit inventor Jack O’Neill lived along East Cliff Drive. A few miles east in Aptos, Seacliff State Beach is notable for its rich marinelife, which is drawn here by the remains of a century-old ship located just off the end of the park’s fishing pier. It now functions as an artificial reef.

    SANTA CRUZ COUNTY ABOUNDS WITH CHARMING VILLAGES AND NEIGHBORHOODS

    One of the most enjoyable ways to tap into the region’s friendly and artsy vibe is to explore the many pedestrian-friendly neighborhoods, which abound with independently owned eateries and shops, colorful murals and sculptures, and positive energy. A great example of this is downtown Santa Cruz’s lively Abbott Square, which is home to a hip food market and the excellent Santa Cruz Museum of Art & History—there are also concerts, outdoor movies, and live music presented in the square throughout the year. Walk along downtown’s main commercial drag, Pacific Avenue, along with its side streets, and you’ll encounter a wealth of distinctive boutiques and cafes.

    Or check out the cool sipping and eating options in Santa Cruz’s lively Westside, a redeveloped warehouse district anchored by Swift Street Courtyard and home to some great restaurants and craft beverage makers.

    In Capitola Village—considered the state’s oldest seaside community—you’ll find one-of-a-kind shops proffering all sorts of whimsical wares: sea glass, folk art, saltwater taffy, antiques, and surf gear among them. After satisfying your retail fix, enjoy a bite to eat at one of the bustling restaurants along the Esplanade, which curves along the beachfront. The mid-county community of Aptos Village is another great locale for a stroll, with its pedestrian-friendly town square dotted with inviting shops and eateries, such as Mentone and the cheerful coffee and tea shop, Norma Jeans.

    IT’S FUN TO GO LOCAL

    If it’s a superb food scene that inspires you to travel, this prolific hub of agriculture and seafood offers enough amazing culinary experiences to keep you happily sipping and noshing for weeks. Given the region’s embrace of progressive values and its Mediterranean climate, it’s not surprising that Santa Cruz County’s food scene stands out in particular for its strong commitment to sustainability and locavorism. In these parts, it’s easy to eat and drink happily and locally.

    The county has several regularly scheduled farmers markets, which provide a nice way to sample produce for which the region is known—think artichokes, Brussels sprouts, asparagus, strawberries, raspberries, apples, apricots, and myriad varieties of sustainably caught seafood. These well-attended events—three of them held in Santa Cruz and others in Felton, Scotts Valley, and at Cabrillo College in Aptos—also provide fun opportunities for people-watching and mingling with like-minded foodies.

    Countless restaurants throughout the county specialize in seasonal cuisine that’s focused on ingredients grown or harvested within the immediate radius. Consider California Grill of the Pajaro Valley in Watsonville, which works closely with local farmers and purveyors. Other romantic spots with similar approaches include intimate Gabriella Cafe, set in a softly lighted bungalow and serving exceptional farm-to-table fare, and La Posta, an acclaimed destination for deftly prepared house-made pastas, creatively topped pizzas, and flavorful grills. When it comes to locally caught seafood, Cafe Cruz in Soquel and Cafe Rio in Aptos are both excellent options. And with three locations in the area, Penny Ice Creamery comes up with its unique flavors (blackberry–sweet corn, Meyer lemon sorbet) by sourcing produce from local farms.

    This ethos continues with Santa Cruz Mountain’s esteemed winemaking scene, where vintners like Storrs Winery in Aptos and Hallcrest Vineyards in Felton produce complex wines from grapes grown organically. You’ll find a number of other great places in the area to sip beverages brewed using organic or sustainable practices, such as the Westside’s Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing for craft beer and downtown’s Santa Cruz Coffee Roasting, an LGBTQ-popular cafe that’s been been roasting and blending delicious espresso drinks since 1978.

    Andrew Collins

    November 1, 2020
    Lifestyle, Things to Do
  • LGBTQ Santa Cruz: A Perfect Three-Day Weekend

    With its breathtaking setting at the northern end of Monterey Bay, vibrant and progressive Santa Cruz County makes a fabulous and friendly destination for a short getaway. You’ll find a wealth of outdoorsy diversions, engaging cultural attractions, and festive dining and drinking spots. For the ultimate weekend adventure, follow this detailed plan for making the most of three days in this LGBTQ-welcoming region that’s within an easy 75-mile drive of San Francisco.

    Day 1

    After checking into your hotel, head to downtown Santa Cruz’s lively Abbott Square, an indoor-outdoor plaza anchored by colorful Abbott Square Market, where food stalls offer up everything from Cajun shrimp-and-corn étouffée to thin-crust Neapolitan pizzas to cardamom tea cakes. Off one corner of the square, check out the always engaging exhibits inside the Santa Cruz Museum of Art & History, whose programming often explores the region’s rich cultural diversity. Running through April 24, 2022 and co-created with the city’s Diversity Center, the museum is currently presenting “Queer Santa Cruz” among its rotating exhibits—it’s a fascinating look into the history, culture, and contributions of Santa Cruz County’s LGBTQ community. Just off Abbott Square at the corner of Cooper Street and Pacific Avenue in early June each year, the Santa Cruz Pride Parade kicks off.

    Stroll a couple of blocks east and take the pedestrian bridge across the San Lorenzo River, and then continue south along the multiuse Santa Cruz Riverwalk, as it meanders in a southeasterly direction along the levee, over the Branciforte Creek Bridge, and eventually along Cliff Drive. Cross back over the San Lorenzo River via the cantilevered pedestrian bridge that runs alongside a handsome steel-truss trestle bridge built by the Southern Pacific Railroad in 1904. On the other side of the bridge, you’ll see before you the colorful rides of the beloved Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, where you can experience a slew of adrenaline-pumping amusements—including the fabled Giant Dipper wooden roller coaster—that have delighted visitors of all ages for more than a century.

    Beyond the boardwalk, if possible at around sunset, venture out onto the bustling Santa Cruz Wharf, soaking up views of the bay clear across to Monterey—about 22 miles south—and listening to the animated barks of seal lions, which you can view through observation windows, cavorting below the wharf on wooden planks. Keep an eye out as well for harbor seals, sea otters, and even occasional migrating humpback whales in the distance, and if you’re feeling hungry, grab a bite to eat at one of the Wharf’s restaurants—maybe a bowl of piping-hot cioppino in the Upper Deck Lounge at Stagnaro Bros., or a platter of beer batter–fried calamari at Riva Fish House.

    From the foot of the wharf, it’s a leisurely 15-minute stroll back downtown, where you’ll find a bounty of additional dinner options as well as several lively bars and clubs. Great bets for food and drinks include the classic Downtown Santa Cruz restaurant, Chocolate, where you can sup on crafted cocktails and fine hot chocolates, and have a variety of plates from around the globe. Around the corner, Laili, a casually smart purveyor of Afghan and Middle Eastern fare, brings bright flavors with their kabobs, flatbreads, and more.

    When it comes to nightlife, Santa Cruz doesn’t have any gay bars per se, but virtually all of the popular establishments downtown draw a mixed crowd and warmly welcome all. Lupulo Craft Beer House is a terrific place to sample mostly West Coast IPAs, farmhouse ales, and artisanal ciders. The Catalyst nightclub brings in notable live bands and DJs and has often been a party venue during Santa Cruz Pride. And the sleek, contemporary bar at Solaire—inside the LGBTQ-popular Hotel Paradox—is a fashionable spot to wind down the evening with a nightcap.

    Day 2

    The following morning, drive about 7 miles north of Santa Cruz to explore the county’s verdant interior of lush forests and historic logging towns. In Scotts Valley, fuel up with coffee (or perhaps a mimosa?) and a plate of huevos rancheros or cinnamon swirl French toast at the Heavenly Roadside Cafe. Drive a few miles west to the friendly hamlet of Felton for a hike through Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, a 4,623-acre patch of piney fresh air and lush gurgling creeks that’s home to a magnificent stand of old-growth California Coastal Redwoods. A 45-minute ramble along the flat ¾-mile Redwood Grove Loop Trail will provide you with an up-close look at the park’s most formidable trees, including a 277-foot-tall leviathan that dates back more than 1,500 years. If you have a little extra time—and especially if your traveling wit kids—don’t miss the Roaring Camp Railroad, which offers scenic narrated excursions on antique locomotives through the surrounding forest, either up to the summit of Bear Mountain or down the valley to the Santa Cruz Boardwalk. 

    In the early afternoon, drive back into Santa Cruz and pick up Highway 1 east to charming Aptos Village for a relaxing alfresco lunch at Mentone, where you can sample the tantalizing pizzas, bountiful salads, and refined Italian fare of Michelin star chef David Kinch. Save a little room for a scoop or two of artisanal ice cream across the street at the Penny Ice Creamery, where inventive flavors like caramelized apple walnut and maple shortbread await. Afterwards, drive inland about 5 miles into the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains to explore the up-and-coming Corralitos Wine Trail. About a half dozen highly regarded winemakers who produce Pinot Noir, Gruner Veltliner, Chardonnay, and other cool-climate-varietal wines are situated within this pastoral area. The sunny courtyard at Storrs Winery & Vineyards, complete with a full-size bocce court, is a particularly enchanting spot to while away an afternoon of wine tasting.

    After resting for a bit back at your hotel, plan for an evening of savoring some of the county’s most sensational cuisine—and most inviting settings. Depending on your mood and style, here are two different approaches: For a romantic evening at a remarkable venue, book a table at Shadowbrook, which turns out artfully prepared regional California dishes like creamy artichoke soup and char-grilled filet mignon in a restored 1920s redwood-log home overlooking Capitola’s Soquel Creek. Your dinner experience begins with a ride down the hillside to the dining room in a 1958 cable car, and you can make your occasion even more magical by arranging to arrive at Shadowbrook in one of the restaurant’s antique checkered cabs.

    If it’s a more casual, progressive dining experience you’re seeking, plan an evening along Swift Street, a lively district of hip bars and eateries on Santa Cruz’s west side. Start your night by sampling the organic craft ales at Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing‘s convivial taproom—the silky Starry Eyed Stout and subtly fragrant Jasmine IPA are both superb. For a bite to eat, hop across the alley of Swift Street Courtyard to West End Tap & Kitchen, which specializes in local beer and wine and also serves up creative comfort food, like smoked-salmon boards and blackberry-glazed smoked pork belly. Or make your way a few blocks south to Venus Spirits Cocktails & Kitchen, which has developed a loyal following for its imaginative cocktails featuring house-distilled gin, aquavit, and agave spirits. On the buzzy patio or inside the airy, modern dining room, you can nosh on marinated-fish tacos and spicy Nashville-style fried chicken with cornbread and chile-honey butter.

    Day 3

    There are few more glorious ways to spend a sun-kissed California morning than with a bike ride along the coast in Capitola and Santa Cruz. If you need wheels, visit Family Cycling Center, in Santa Cruz near the Capitola border, which rents both cruisers and e-bikes. Before you hit the beach, drop by Gayle’s Bakery & Rosticceria for a well-prepared espresso drink and a bacon breakfast burrito or a flaky Kouign-amann pastry. Then pedal your way south to Capitola Beach, cross Soquel Creek, and spend some time exploring Hooper Beach and Capitola Pier.

    Continue your cycling tour along the coast, taking picturesque Cliff Drive around scenic Soquel Point and past Blacks Beach, once again passing by Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk and onward to Lighthouse Point, an excellent place to learn about the region’s renowned surfing culture. View the Surfers Monument on West Cliff Drive, a dramatic bronze statue of a striking, handsome surfer standing before his upright surfboard, before visiting the small but fascinating Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, which occupies a small redbrick lighthouse set high on a bluff with great views back toward the city’s shoreline and Santa Cruz Wharf. Inside, you’ll find a trove of photos, antique boards, and memorabilia that traces the region’s nearly 140-year history with surfing.

    Depending on how much time you have after returning your rental bike and checking out of your hotel, you might consider extending your coastal explorations by leaving town via Highway 1, which offers a stunning scenic route up the coast toward Half Moon Bay and San Francisco. You’ll find numerous beaches to stop and explore along the way, including tranquil if slightly hard-to-find (and clothing-optional) Laguna Creek Beach, which is popular both with the LGBTQ community and fans of birdwatching, and Scott Creek Beach, a more easily accessed swath of sand that’s ideal for tide-pooling when the tide is out and wandering along a windswept shore back by sheer sea cliffs.

    For a bite to eat out this way, stop in the tiny coastal hamlet of Davenport—10 miles up the coast from Santa Cruz. Here at the inviting Whale City Bakery, Bar & Grill, you can savor a cup of clam chowder or a platter of golden house-made crab cakes, perhaps with one last farewell glass of locally produced wine or beer to celebrate a weekend well spent.

    Andrew Collins

    June 24, 2020
    Lifestyle

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